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  1. #601
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Danby
    Posts
    2,548
    Quote Originally Posted by RTsucks View Post
    Well, I think I have pivots somewhere. Don't know, but would have to double check, that sth2 are narrow enough. Don't know anything about race bindings. I bought two pairs of 00/01 ogaska skis recently because they came to $170 w/ shipping. Wasn't thinking about gripwalk and mount width.
    Sth2 can go down to like 80+. Minimum brake offering is 90. You need to get brakes that match the ski width. That will determine binding.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #602
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    9,293
    I’m currently having a hell of a time trying to tap some older dps pures. Struggling to get the tap to bite into that pre-preg carbon layer. I definitely haven’t struggled like this with tapping metal skis or even my older lotus 138’s which also have that prepreg carbon layer (it’s not as thick in the l138’s. I feel like I’m doing something wrong or my tap is tapped out. Any suggestions?

  3. #603
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    403
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    I’m currently having a hell of a time trying to tap some older dps pures. Struggling to get the tap to bite into that pre-preg carbon layer. I definitely haven’t struggled like this with tapping metal skis or even my older lotus 138’s which also have that prepreg carbon layer (it’s not as thick in the l138’s. I feel like I’m doing something wrong or my tap is tapped out. Any suggestions?
    I'm using pliers for tap rotation plus slight pressure from the top of the tap. Some skis are definitely hard to tap.

  4. #604
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    893
    Quote Originally Posted by HukuTa_KydecHuk View Post
    I'm using pliers for tap rotation plus slight pressure from the top of the tap. Some skis are definitely hard to tap.
    Get a tapered tap.

  5. #605
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    9,293
    Thanks for replies. I’m going to keep trying…. My struggle is getting the tap to initially bite and establish those initial few threads. Both palms are bruised from trying to get that to happen with “light pressure.”

  6. #606
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    18,531
    Quote Originally Posted by RTsucks View Post
    Well, I think I have pivots somewhere. Don't know, but would have to double check, that sth2 are narrow enough. Don't know anything about race bindings. I bought two pairs of 00/01 ogaska skis recently because they came to $170 w/ shipping. Wasn't thinking about gripwalk and mount width.
    If you're interested in trading some wider Pivot brakes for race width Pivot brakes let me know.

  7. #607
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    1,720
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    I’m currently having a hell of a time trying to tap some older dps pures. Struggling to get the tap to bite into that pre-preg carbon layer. I definitely haven’t struggled like this with tapping metal skis or even my older lotus 138’s which also have that prepreg carbon layer (it’s not as thick in the l138’s. I feel like I’m doing something wrong or my tap is tapped out. Any suggestions?
    Buy a new tap. Tapping through metal, and drilling through metal wears things out. Same for s drill bit. Although it's easier to sharpen a bit than it is a tap.

  8. #608
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    1,720
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    Thanks for replies. I’m going to keep trying…. My struggle is getting the tap to initially bite and establish those initial few threads. Both palms are bruised from trying to get that to happen with “light pressure.”
    https://www.slidewright.com/dp/snoli...-threadcutter/

  9. #609
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    893
    That's not an insert tap.

    Get a tapered tap, or the set below so you can chase the tapered tap with a bottoming tap.

    Drill America 5/16"-18 High Speed Steel Tap Set, T/A Series https://a.co/d/3BPDUTR

  10. #610
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    1,114
    Quote Originally Posted by Westcoaster View Post
    That's not an insert tap.

    Get a tapered tap, or the set below so you can chase the tapered tap with a bottoming tap.

    Drill America 5/16"-18 High Speed Steel Tap Set, T/A Series https://a.co/d/3BPDUTR
    This. I thought the first few turns should be made with a tapered tap and then finish with bottom tap. No?

  11. #611
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    9,293

    Review: Binding Freedom Inserts - The Swiss Cheese Experiment

    I have slidewright’s insert tap. I have tapped a total of 70 holes: 16 were in a metal layer ski, 16 were in l138’s with that prepreg carbon layer, 8 (so far) in wailer 95’s with thicker prepreg carbon, and rest in wood, lighter/less thick carbon, fiberglass cores. Is the prepreg stuff bulletproof?

    Is that enough to tap out the tap?

  12. #612
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    893
    Quote Originally Posted by dschane View Post
    This. I thought the first few turns should be made with a tapered tap and then finish with bottom tap. No?
    That is the right way to do it. I find with a good top sheet bevel you can use a bottom tap just fine, though.

  13. #613
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    1,720
    Quote Originally Posted by Westcoaster View Post
    That's not an insert tap.

    Get a tapered tap, or the set below so you can chase the tapered tap with a bottoming tap.

    Drill America 5/16"-18 High Speed Steel Tap Set, T/A Series https://a.co/d/3BPDUTR
    Ive been busted by the insert tap police.



    https://www.bindingfreedom.com/insert-installation-tap/

  14. #614
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,543
    This goes, right?

  15. #615
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    1,720
    looks good

  16. #616
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Danby
    Posts
    2,548
    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    This goes, right?
    What in the fuck is going on here?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #617
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,543
    Previous owner marker alpine holes.

    Vipec holes at -2 plugged.

    Vipec holes at +2 with budget inserts capped with set screws.

    Botched paper template trab installation, reset with nylon screws and re-drilled with jig. I tried fixing the alignment with an insert but it was still off so I plugged the insert with a 5-16 bolt. I will probably do inserts for the Trabs at some point.

  18. #618
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    7B Idaho
    Posts
    948
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    I’m currently having a hell of a time trying to tap some older dps pures. Struggling to get the tap to bite into that pre-preg carbon layer. I definitely haven’t struggled like this with tapping metal skis or even my older lotus 138’s which also have that prepreg carbon layer (it’s not as thick in the l138’s. I feel like I’m doing something wrong or my tap is tapped out. Any suggestions?
    If you think you have the control, try tapping on power with a cordless drill on a slow speed. It allows you to apply axial pressure on the tap with both hands, keeping it upright, while the drill does the rotation. I basically only tap on power now for standard mounts or inserts. The tapered tap is also a good idea, but you can start with the tapered tap and power then finish with a bottoming tap for inserts.

  19. #619
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,543
    I never saw the need for a bottoming tap.

  20. #620
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Wasatch Back: 7000'
    Posts
    13,165
    I messed up a pair of wooden noodles with the insert tap. It should not be a huge deal and can be rectified with a few 5/15 wooden plugs, some steel wool and 24hr. epoxy. It is much easier to properly tap a ski with metal than Paulownia
    “How does it feel to be the greatest guitarist in the world? I don’t know, go ask Rory Gallagher”. — Jimi Hendrix

  21. #621
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Wyoming
    Posts
    500
    Quote Originally Posted by skis_the_trees View Post
    If you think you have the control, try tapping on power with a cordless drill on a slow speed. It allows you to apply axial pressure on the tap with both hands, keeping it upright, while the drill does the rotation. I basically only tap on power now for standard mounts or inserts. The tapered tap is also a good idea, but you can start with the tapered tap and power then finish with a bottoming tap for inserts.
    I use a drill press for this, manually spinning the chuck, and applying axial force with the press function.. Works pretty great.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  22. #622
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    9,293
    Quote Originally Posted by schindlerpiste View Post
    I messed up a pair of wooden noodles with the insert tap. It should not be a huge deal and can be rectified with a few 5/15 wooden plugs, some steel wool and 24hr. epoxy. It is much easier to properly tap a ski with metal than Paulownia
    I may have mangled a few holes with the dull tap. They are not as clean looking as I’m used to seeing. Hard to know for me if they will be an issue. I really do not want failure on spring tours. I’m trying to get my and older son’s shit dialed before he’s back from school in two weekends. I ordered a QK rescue kit. May go the route of wood plugs and steel wool….

    Maybe I’ll make the call for a redo based on how the insert installation goes?

  23. #623
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Wasatch Back: 7000'
    Posts
    13,165
    Do you think that using hickory wood pellets (think Traeger) with epoxy as a plug would work? The only plugs that I have are 3/8" and they are too big for the holes. I think the insert tap is 5/16". Also, I have some steel wool laying around. I'm thinking that I could even make some sort of slurry with wood flour or sawdust
    Last edited by schindlerpiste; 05-05-2024 at 10:43 AM.
    “How does it feel to be the greatest guitarist in the world? I don’t know, go ask Rory Gallagher”. — Jimi Hendrix

  24. #624
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,543
    5/16 nylon bolts work for my fuck-ups


  25. #625
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    9,293

    Review: Binding Freedom Inserts - The Swiss Cheese Experiment

    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    I may have mangled a few holes with the dull tap. They are not as clean looking as I’m used to seeing. Hard to know for me if they will be an issue. I really do not want failure on spring tours. I’m trying to get my and older son’s shit dialed before he’s back from school in two weekends. I ordered a QK rescue kit. May go the route of wood plugs and steel wool….

    Maybe I’ll make the call for a redo based on how the insert installation goes?
    End result photo below of insert in mangled hole. Thoughts and feelings? I wasn’t sure how much I mangled them with the dull tap. I got a new tap and carefully ran it into the hole. The hole looked good. Odd to me how deep the insert is. I use a stop on my drill bit. It looks like there may be epoxy to the top of the hole (ie it’s probably sealed from water getting to the core. I’m getting purchase with the screw and binding. These are for 6 hole tele bindings.
    Click image for larger version. 

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